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St. Louis Magazine - July, 2008
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Liquid Assets - Rosé

Not just for Frenchmen anymore

Liquid Assets - Rosé

It always bugs me when I hear people say that rosé wines are less masculine than pinots or cabernets or that they are reserved only for the ladies. Say that to a Frenchman in the Midi, and it may escalate into a discussion "à deux mains."

The first rosé wines were not a bastardization of the zinfandel grape but a byproduct of conscious winemaking. In Europe—particularly southern France—juice was bled off a vat of fermenting red wine to increase the skins-to-juice ratio (mostly in lean vintages), which bolstered the color and body of the resulting red wine. This "leftover" juice, now slightly pink, was not wasted but made into a simple, light wine that could be consumed while waiting for the reds to mature. It is a process the French call "saingée."

Rosés offer a perfect refuge and transition from the red wines of winter to the whites of summer. Truly some of my favorite wines to just drink—as opposed to savor—rosés always make me feel as if I'm on an island somewhere. Float on up to one of these …


2007 Château Mourgues du Grès, Les Galets Rosé
Costières de Nîmes, France

$13.99A powerfully bright, purply rosé with aromatics that are fresh and intoxicating with notes of strawberries, white cherries, pineapple and banana. This awesome blend of Syrah and Grenache overdelivers with fruit so ripe it reminds me of Bazooka bubble gum for adults.
2007 Ojai Rosé
Oak View, Calif.
$18.99This blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre with a touch of Syrah and sauvignon blanc is soft and fruity. Flavors of white cherries, cantaloupe and pear fill the mouth with springtime and joy, and the delicate finish will stick with you long after the last sip. Totally addicting!

2007 La Vieille Ferme Rosé
Côtes du Ventoux, France
$10.99This classic blend of Rhône varietals dominated by Syrah and Grenache offers candied fruit of raspberries, strawberries and dried banana. Hints of dried sage and mint lead to a long, persistent finish. Plus, at 11 bucks, it's a great value.