When my time came, I reached for the first glass of white and began: “It has a clear appearance, star-bright reflectivity, a color of white gold and platinum …” After quickly—but carefully—commenting on its nose and palate, I called it a Pinot Grigio from Friuli, Italy, and identified the other whites as a Chenin Blanc from Savennières in France’s Loire Valley and an Austrian Riesling from the Wachau. I was halfway done and making good time.
And then I got to the reds. I quickly concluded that the first was a Cabernet Franc from Chinon in the Loire Valley, but then I stopped—“Would they really give me two Loire Valley wines?” I thought. And that’s when the doubt started to creep in: Did I make the wrong call on the second white? Flustered, I moved on to the second red and called it a Spanish Rioja, then backtracked and called it an Italian Chianti. But I still wasn’t sure—there’s always one wine that gets you off track, and this was mine. The clock seemed to tick faster as I regrouped and tried to remember everything I’d said. I settled on calling it a Côtes du Rhône from France and moved on to the last wine, but I was running out of time. Trying desperately not to stare at the clock, I blurted out, “1990 Right Bank Bordeaux, Margaux, fifth growth,” just as the buzzer rang. “Does that count?”
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It did, but in the end, it didn’t matter. Seven of the 55 advanced sommeliers who took the exam that day passed, but I wasn’t one of them. Master sommelier Madeline Triffon complimented my focus, rhythm and overall performance and even said she looked forward to seeing me again next year, but from what I could gather, I missed two of the six wines. The ironic part? I got the fifth wine right.
